Hot takes, favourite spots and little rituals from our founder Leonie Lepenos - for everyone wanting to experience Athens beyond the classic tourist version.
I honestly don’t know how many times I created, updated, lost and then desperately searched again for my personal Athens recommendation list to send to friends traveling there :)
Athens is basically my second hometown. My father is from here, part of my family still lives here and I partly live between Greece and Germany myself — so I’ve known the beautiful Athenian jungle since childhood.
And wow… Athens has changed a lot over the years.
The city became incredibly international, creative and alive. New cafés, wine bars, food concepts and beautiful places keep popping up constantly — while at the exact same time ancient Greek history and mythology remain present everywhere around you.
That’s what makes Athens so special to me:
international modern hipster hotspots meeting ancient heritage energy.
One second you’re drinking matcha with international tattoo artists, architects and fashion people in Kypseli — the next second you walk past ruins that are over 2000 years old and channel your past lives..!
So these are my current personal hot takes, favorite places and little rituals around the ever-evolving city of Athens - my Capital A :)
Athens is not a city that reveals itself immediately.
It’s loud, imperfect, sensual, chaotic and deeply alive.
The magic happens once you stop trying to “see everything” and instead begin to feel the city.
So don’t stick too strictly to this list either :)
Get inspired, wander around, explore Athens like a curious child again. Playful energy! Some of my favorite moments in the city happened completely unplanned - walking through random streets, suddenly finding a tiny café, an old marble staircase, a hidden wine bar or simply sitting somewhere observing Athenian life for hours.
One small honest note though: I personally would still be a bit more cautious around areas like Omonia and Victoria Square, especially late at night. Athens is changing a lot and many neighborhoods are developing quickly, but like in every bigger city, it’s always good to stay aware of your surroundings and keep your bag close to you in busy areas :)
For me, Athens is best experienced slowly: morning coffee rituals, long walks through different neighborhoods, tiny taverns, rooftop sunsets, sea breeze from the Riviera and conversations that last until 2am.
So here we go! This is not a classic tourist guide.
It’s simply a collection of places I personally love.
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Restaurants
Modern Greek / Creative Athens Energy
- Pharaoh — iconic atmosphere, very Athenian, very cool.
- Seychelles — food-wise my absolute fav! And super lovely hosts, chefs - super warm, welcoming feels!
- September 18 — beautiful energy and aesthetic.
- KAPSA — probably my favorite souvlaki spot for lunch. Traditional Greek fast food with more modern/fusion twists (the avocado souvlaki = super yum!)
- Spitjack — amazing meat dishes.
- Akra — beautiful breakfast/lunch atmosphere and great food.
- Birdman — Japanese-inspired, cool crowd, great late-night energy.
- Ekiben — smash burgers + Asian sandwiches… dangerously good.
- Vezene — from the chef behind Birdman & Ekiben.
- The Zillers — rooftop dining with Acropolis energy.
- Wine Is Fine — very hip wine bar / restaurant.
- Hytra — elevated modern Greek cuisine.
- Linou Soumpasis & Sia — modern Greek tavern atmosphere, super cool.
- Soil — refined and beautiful.
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Cafés
(Most of these are around the Syntagma / center area unless otherwise noted.)
- Anana Coffee (my living room)
- Myller Coffee Shop (second living room)
- Philos Athens (loooove the interior / vibe here)
- Minu Athens (my fav breakfast here)
- 10AM - the place to be: Saturdays they serve coffees!
- 72H Artisan Bakery — especially the melt sandwich. Also: everything for takeaway from the bakery is incredibly good.
- The Zillers Pastry Bar
- The Underdog — especially nice if you walk around Thisseio. Really good coffee
- Queen Bee — in Kolonaki.
- Athénée
- Spook — nice stop in Thisseio.
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KICK - In Kypseli (One of the coolest and most creative neighborhoods in Athens, see below.)
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Neighborhoods & Walks
Plaka
Walk through the old town beneath the Acropolis.
Touristy, yes — but still magical if you wander without a strict plan.
Anafiotika
One of the most special places in Athens.
Tiny white Cycladic-style houses hidden directly beneath the Acropolis, almost feeling like a little Greek island village inside the city. Walk around slowly, sit somewhere quiet and just observe the contrast between ancient stones, white walls and the chaos of the city below.
Philopappos Hill
One of my favorite walks in Athens.
Beautiful views, pine trees and sunset energy.
Mount Lycabettus
Walk or hike up for one of the best panoramic views over Athens.
Halfway up there’s a café — perfect for a juice or coffee break while overlooking the city.
Strefi Hill
A more alternative / hipster atmosphere with beautiful viewpoints.
I personally wouldn’t hang around there alone late at night though.
Temple of Hephaestus
My personal favorite ancient temple in Athens.
I truly absolutely love the energy there — especially around golden hour. Somehow it feels calmer and more grounded to me than the Acropolis itself. Had deep, deep channels here :)
Also highly recommended: the oldest house in Athens - in Plaka: donation based entrance fee - Adress: Adrianou 100 (I was living right next door for 1,5 years and the Ancient Greek energy there is so so sooooo powerfully felt)
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My fav Athens Neighborhoods
Kolonaki
Athens’ chic neighborhood: Beautiful cafés, boutiques and elegant city energy. You can combine it perfectly with a Lycabettus walk.
Also: right next to Queen Bee (coffee shop) there’s a great lunch spot called Kalamaki Kolonaki for salads, gyros and kalamaki.
Kypseli
Creative, artistic, local and full of character.
(Love the vintage and antique shops there! )
Exarchia
Alternative, political, rebellious, intellectual Athens energy. (And the best farmers market in town!! )
Pangrati
One of the nicest neighborhoods for café hopping and slow walks.
Koukaki
Relaxed, local-feeling and incredibly charming.
Glyfada
Stylish cafés, shopping and sea energy. Feels very different from central Athens.
Nea Smyrni
A very typical local Greek neighborhood with fewer tourists. (Also where parts of my family originally comes from.) If you take the tram toward Glyfada or Piraeus, you’ll pass through it. Get off at the tram station “Plateia Fotinis.”
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The Athenian Riviera
Athens and the sea for me belong together.
So once per week (minimum) we go to the beach!
Voula Beach Clubs
Take the tram all the way down toward Voula. Around the beach clubs there, you’ll find a more relaxed, chic Riviera atmosphere — almost a quieter Mykonos feeling. Bloom and Athénée are both nice options.
Flisvos Marina: easy and quick option, nor that far - Beautiful for sunset walks by the water, cafés and seeing another side of Athens life.
The tram station is also called “Flisvos Marina.”
My absolutely absolutely fav Coffee Shop in Athens is: Sofi’s in Vouliagmeni…. Feels like LA here: high vibe, airy, open, bright, clean girl- healthy! (Unfortunately you need a car to get there)
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Culture & Museums
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
Definitely worth visiting. Beautiful architecture, cultural events and a great atmosphere.
Museums I personally love
- National Archaeological Museum
- Benaki Museum — also enjoy the rooftop café.
- Museum of Cycladic Art — very beautiful café inside as well.
- EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art — contemporary/artsy Athens energy.
- Byzantine and Christian Museum
Especially perfect on colder or rainy days :)
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Piraeus & Aegina
Pasalimani — Piraeus
If you’re taking the ferry to Aegina, make a stop at Pasalimani before or after! A small yacht harbor in Piraeus with cafés and beautiful sea atmosphere.
Day Trip to Aegina
One of my favorite quick escapes from Athens: Visit the Temple of Apollo and walk around the surrounding hill and museum — the energy there feels incredibly peaceful. Also spend time in the old town and by the harbor. Right behind the Temple of Apollo there’s a lovely small family-run hotel owned by a Greek-Swedish family. I sadly always forget the name, but they also own another beautiful hotel directly by the sea on the way from the harbor toward the temple. One of the few places that usually stays open even during off-season :)
Fav restaurant in Aegina: LECAFE
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And then.. take the ferry back to Athens during sunset - simply magical!
Athens in my opinion is less about “sightseeing” — and more about rhythm, atmosphere and feeling.
I hope this guide helps you experience a little bit of the version of Athens I personally love.
— Yours Leonie Sevastie Zoë Lepenos
